Chassis Tubes.

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I had various fluids....rivets etc finding their way out of the box sections for two years after i started driving my mk2. i just judged where things were gathering and drilled holes to drain/let bits out where necessary....still some rivet pieces rattling round inside even now....scamp life......

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After my prang a couple of years ago I replaced my front mud guards around the wheel arches.
When drilling out the rivets at the bottom of the rear wheel arch member a lot of water came out.  

How the hell it got in there is anyones guess ........ condensation ?

Drain holes were drilled....... 2 chances.  

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You can still get imperial tube ends. Try these guys:
http://www.rosshandling.co.uk/tube-inserts-4.asp

Based in Leicester but will post orders out. Think they have a web shop now too. If you can't find what you want give them a call they're always very helpful and usually cheaper then any where else.

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Any of the good stockholders should carry stock of 1 1/2" x 1 1/2"  14SWG ERW

That translates to inch and a half x inch and a half 14 gauge ERW (Imperial version of 40mm x 40mm x 2mm)

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3mm wall is way too heavy - 14SWG is fine. The main thing is that the general run of the mill metric stuff tends to have radius corners but ERW imperial will have a squarer section. You can mix and match but just be aware in some areas it can look a little odd.

Sylva Striker chassis are only 16SWG and the lightweight chassis 18SWG.

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Mk1s used 10g (3mm). Mk2s were a bit lighter.

Hi Steve,

While rebuilding the front of Walle, i've used 40x40x2.5mm to replace the whole front end. I've made the subframe a lot stronger by seam welding it, as well as cutting it away to take the Vauxhall engine.  

Admittedly as a designer & due to the damage in the crash, i've seriously reinforced Walle. Having seen the damage that can happen at 30mph, with a cut-away subframe at 1st hand, i can say the standard design is very robust. Some simple triangulation on the subframe top mounts make the chassis a lot stiffer on a Mk2, great news on the bends.

I would also recommend welding a brace between the top of the turrets, if your engine configuration allows it. Its been so long since Walle had an A series in that i cant remember how the A series exhuast manifold is routed  

Try drilling & tapping some M6 holes in the lower sections of box section. Allows you to pump waxoyl (other products are available) into the tubes & then put a M6 A2 stainless bolt in. Simply remove the screw periodically to see if any water/mud leaks out....

To maintain a consistent look across the scamp, go with 14swg 1 1/2", if you want to reinforce internally go with 40mm x 3. Dont forget locallised triangulation with 25x25x3 or 1"x1"x10swg can save on space & help access problems.

Because it's bigger, doesn't mean its stronger. Triangulation of the chassis allows manufacturers to use thinner wall tubing, whilst maintaining strength.

OK, my designer's anorak is off.........Scamper anorak on......go with whichever is easiest & cheapest......

Any queries, just ask.....some of us are regularly hogging parts of the forum....like Neils Incident......we're a melting pot of ideas, we just need a good stir occasionally....  

Neil

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Most LCB manifolds need a good dressing on the centre branch to fit if you put that bar across.  But a 3 into 1 manifold is fine.

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MK1 Scamps have the 2 subframe tower mounts linked.

Rum Tum Tugger might be able to offer photos.

Nice photoshop job there!  If you drop the new cross member 1½" it'll be about right.  BTW there's room between it and the engine for a Minispares LCB exhaust, but it's a right pain to get in.

Rum Tum Tugger wrote:Nice photoshop job there!  If you drop the new cross member 1½" it'll be about right. 

I hadn't noticed that  

You've got some pota-packing to do though to get everything back in line as it would have be originally.

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They are bent

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