Engine Transplant !

How hard is it to change the wiring to the starter motor from the old style to the newer metro type, as I a new complete 1275 engine and gearbox but do not want to change clutch side just to keep old starter and wiring ? thanks..........

Old as in dynamo?

If its got an alternator it should be a straight swap over. I've certainly not encountered any problems fliting between the many A and A+ engines i've had in Pea over the years. The only difference (I recall) it the location of the starter solenoid and it's not rocket science to move the wiring from the solenoid on the inner wing to the front of the engine. The connector on the lucas altenator, low tension wire to the dizzy and feeds to the coil are the same whether its A or A+.

The dizzy and the alternator I am okay with its just the starter ...... do you have to do anything with the soleniod and how to wire in the starter motor with its pre -engage ? thanks

I don't have the manual for post-1978 minis to hand, but I do remember the fun and games I had swapping in an MG Metro engine with a pre-engaged starter. Fortunately I also had most of the Metro wiring loom to hand: the final result is a mix of Mini, Metro and Triumph Dolomite which I may tell you about some other time, if I ever get around to finishing it.

Anyway, the current to the starter was originally handled by a separate starter solenoid - the box with two fat wires connected respectively to the battery and the starter motor. On pre-engaged starters, this job is done by the built-in solenoid that also engages the drive. So the wire from the battery has to go direct to this.

The new solenoid takes more current than can be comfortably handled by the ignition switch, so a relay is needed to handle it. This is a simple SPST relay, such as is used for headlamps and (serious) horns. It's driven from the white/red wire that went to the original solenoid, and needs some fairly heavy gauge wire - say 30A - connecting the switched terminals to the supply and the new solenoid.

One more complication is that there may be an extra connection on the solenoid, for shorting out the ignition ballast resistor where fitted.

If you have a late 80's / 90's mini manual you need to compare the two wiring diagrams for the starter and the alternator.

the orig solenoid.............. i just used it like a conector block. The lead from the battery comes from it down to the starter.

The main prob to watch for is the alternator charging wire still goes back to the orig solenoid and then onto the battery.

On the piggy back solenoid/starter make sure that the short fixed wire between the solenoid and starter has a good clearence between the body and doesnt short out.

Thats all i did and its still good 18mths later.

Thanks for information, will have a good look and decide whether to rewire or change the clutch housing to keep the original set -up and wiring.
This is the least of my worries as I am going to change the sub-frame, engine/gearbox,steering rack,disc brakes, 7 new alloys + tyres, as much as I can get away with ....................and then try to go to the IOM probably the week before the TT...........and see my old Midas while I am there !

Get hold of a very late Mini or Metro manual it will pay dividends in the end.

The wiring change was easy once i'd got the right drawings.

Best of luck on your project.

As James said in a previous thread fitting a pre engage starter is a doddle.
1/battery lead (direct from battery) to main terminal on starter + a supply lead to your fuse box and alternator(on the same connector)
2/small lead that triggers the current remote solanoid on the chassis - lenghten and go direct to the small connector on the pre engage starter solanoid.
I have one on my Scamp and they work just fine.If you are thinking of fitting the an inertia starter you will need to fit a different flywheel as the teeth are different.