Dougal (friend of Florence)

Dougal is home thanks to Mike Smith, Nettie was supposed to drive him back but she snapped the clutch cable within 5 minutes of getting in the drivers seat, clutch cable you say, in a Scamp, yep its a mk2 with a mk2 metro engine/subframe. New cable sourced, kink in old cable caused by too acute entry in bulkhead, realigned with a long piece of pipe and a bit of force. One big issue is the peddles, they are too near the floor making them very difficult to operate. Looks like the clutch peddle will have to be shortened at least. Home made fuel tank has no sender only a sight tube, might change it later, no heater either, lots of fettling to do, watch this space.

Just a thought with the pedals, could you lower the floor and put a footwell where your heels rest ? I was thinking of doing that with mine but it didn't need it in the end.

Looked at doing that but looking underneath an additional support has been welded in to take the metro subframe, so shorter pedal it will have to be.

Or a raised pedal-box if you fancy a major job.  Shortening the pedals was recommended on Mk1s, but the reduced leverage means you have to shove them harder to get the same effect.  This didn't much matter in the days when brakes & clutches needed quite a bit of effort anyway, but ankles accustomed to a modern car will notice the difference.

And be sure to get the pedal angle right - I didn't, and it didn't help.

Annoying pedals!



Wiring to tidy up next, oh and new clutch cable fitted.

Spring balance?
That's getting technical.

Mk3rob wrote:Spring balance?
That's getting technical.

Or work lamp as we call them?

"Work" lamp.
Ah that was the problem
Me not being aqaunted with that word.

Another weekend spent fettling Dougal, fuse/relay carrier now painted and bolted down (usually mounted inside under the dash in a Metro) and removed unwanted cabling going nowhere, oh and busy with the yellow paint.

Question having no previous with Hydrogas do i shell out for some garage on the Hrdrogas list or do i buy my own pump? bump stops are getting near the top arm, the drive shafts are also not level i.e. going uphill slightly - any advice from anyone with a metro Scamp please :0)

Martin & Nettie wrote:Question having no previous with Hydrogas do i shell out for some garage on the Hrdrogas list or do i buy my own pump? bump stops are getting near the top arm, the drive shafts are also not level i.e. going uphill slightly - any advice from anyone with a metro Scamp please :0)

It depends on what type of pump you get. The ones which look like a grease gun can let air in, I use one myself on my Metro. I would get it pumped up with a proper pump, personally.

Before:



After:



One thing that maybe wrongly connected is the rear brake pressure reducer (the cylindrical thing below the fluid reservoir) its piped to the front brakes, the rear brakes are connected to the top outlet, anyone agree ?

No one got any views on the way the master cylinder is piped up ?

Spent another weekend sorting the wiring, not good for someone who is colour blind, dip/main switch not working, it used to be so simple, trace wiring back, check with meter for continuity/voltage, but everything has a relay, found that the column multi function switch worked apart from dip/main switch, how much is of one those going to cost ? Shall I dismantle it, if I do will many little bits fly everywhere ? Some bits did drop on the floor, the dip/main contacts were crudded up, cotton bud dipped in meths cleaned them up, many attempts to put it back together later, now have working headlights, hope to have the rest of the wiring tidied up by next weekend.

The brake pressure reducer should definitely be in the rear brake circuit.  It does the same job as the tee-shaped regulating valve used with single-circuit systems - the one bolted to the rear subframe, covered in road dirt.  As to which of the master cylinder outlets goes to the front brakes and which to the rear, my copy of Haynes is silent.  It may not make any difference.

Stalk switches do not seem to have been designed with dismantling in mind.  Plastic bits, embrittled with age, break: spring-loaded bits depart in all directions: self-tapped threads strip.  If only one beam output (main or dipped) works, a possible workaround is to use it to drive a changeover relay. Getting the headlamp flasher to work, though, is another matter.

OTOH if that is a Metro master cylinder, the lower connection is the primary circuit, going to one inlet on each of the Metro front calipers, and also via the reducer valve to the rear drum brakes.  The upper is the secondary circuit, going to the other front caliper inlets only. Some of the connections may have metric threads.

Well next Saturday you will be at the right place to find one.

Over the years the plugs stayed the same but they swopped to of the wires over.
I think that they were the indicator ones, but good old Haynes will tell you.

We won't be there as it clashes with Robin & Elaine's walking meet (thought we mentioned it at Lydd), any road up headlights fixed, the silly metro integral sidelights bulbs just fell off just looking at them, have ordered separate led sidelights, have nearly used two rolls of black insulting tape, next job move the drivers seat a bit forward no adjustment left so I can test drive it


PS thanks for the tips guys.

Now Dougal has a proper hinged bonnet and new led side lights



Wiring nearly complete and engine bay painted



Tank removed but has no sender, anyone got a mk2 or similar tank with sender for sale ?