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SU Help Needed

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SU Help Needed Empty SU Help Needed

Post  OSR on Fri Feb 19, 2010 1:07 pm

I've been trying to get the engine running on my Scamp for the last couple of weeks and it's turning in to a bit of a mission impossible - grrr!

To give a bit of background I have no idea when the engine was last run but its over 18 months as that's how long I've had the car. According to the engine number it's a post '85 1275 Metro engine and has an electronic module rather then points.

The first problem was a lack of spark but that was solved with a new coil. The rest of the ignition side i.e. leads, cap, plugs, module etc all look to be new.

The next problem was petrol coming out the SU overflow when cranking. I stripped down the SU and found the float valve gummed up. Cleaned that all up and reassembled it, including resetting the float but not touching the mixture screw as I only disassembled the float and jet to get to the valve.

We then set the engine timing and the engine's trying to fire but doesn't quite. Pulling the plugs out they all looked quite wet and we wondered if the mixture was too strong. So we thought the mixture screw might not be correctly set.

According to the Haynes SU Manual to initially adjust the screw you should 'Turn the mixture adjustment screw until the top of the jet is flush with the top of the jet guide. Now turn the screw 2 turns clockwise.'

When we looked at the top of the jet it was a good 5mm above the jet guide. Turning the mixture screw brought it down level with the guide but turning the screw the 2 turns clockwise isn't possible as the screw locks off at about 1 1/2 turns. Anyone any ideas of what is likely to be wrong or any other suggestions
of things to look at?

MTIA, Charlie


Last edited by OSR on Fri Feb 19, 2010 1:10 pm; edited 1 time in total (Reason for editing : to sort out some weird formatting :/)
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Post  Jono on Fri Feb 19, 2010 1:40 pm

http://www.sucarb.co.uk/Technical.aspx ...might be of some use? SU Help Needed Icon_biggrin Cheers, Jono
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Post  OSR on Fri Feb 19, 2010 4:18 pm

Thanks for the linky Jono Smile I had a look at the SU site a few days ago but managed to miss that section SU Help Needed Icon_rolleyes . I'll have a read of it over the weekend.
Cheers, Charlie
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Post  OSR on Sun May 02, 2010 6:50 pm

Just to update everyone we've finally managed to get the engine running today Very Happy

Iain was having a look at the wiring diagrams in Haynes whilst he was planning out the new loom and noticed that the model of dizzy fitted shouldn't have a ballast resistor. By pass the ballast and it runs SU Help Needed 887336


Last edited by OSR on Sun May 02, 2010 6:53 pm; edited 2 times in total (Reason for editing : speling :D)
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Post  Rum Tum Tugger on Sun May 02, 2010 9:04 pm

Make sure your new coil is suitable for unballasted use - that's the main component affected, rather than the dizzie. I had the same situation with the MG Metro engine in my Mk2 - the wiring loom included a redundant ballast wire. I guess that particular unit went down the production line when a change was in progress.
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Post  OSR on Sun May 02, 2010 9:15 pm

Yeah we've check the part number on the coil and it's an unballasted one Smile
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Post  wezgit daan saaf on Sun May 09, 2010 10:26 pm

Sounds like you have sorted the problem out,but if you still have a problem with the carb adjustment it is possible that the jet adjustment screw has come off the bottom of the jet.The HIF (horisontal internal float) carbs fitted to the metros had a type of cam idea with the adjustment screw and it was possible to wind them so far that the srew came off the bottom of the jet and make the adjustment so far out that you can't adjust it properly.
As far as the balast resistor goes,from what I can remeber,the balast resistor wire(which should be an extra one on the positive side of the coil)was white with a yellow tracer and was incorperated into the loom(unlike the ford ones which had an external and replaceable wire external to the main loom).
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Post  SUMB on Sun May 09, 2010 10:41 pm

wezgit daan saaf wrote:
As far as the balast resistor goes,from what I can remeber,the balast resistor wire(which should be an extra one on the positive side of the coil)was white with a yellow tracer and was incorperated into the loom(unlike the ford ones which had an external and replaceable wire external to the main loom).

Oh, oh and I remember the answer to that bit from my years at Sylva - Ford ballast wires were pink and you must keep them the correct length otherwise you get more than the required 7.2V

As Bruiser Partlett would say - Anorak mode off Rolling Eyes
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Post  nhazelwood on Mon May 10, 2010 9:57 am

Hiya,

Just a quick note, when i changed Walle from ballasted to unballasted, the balast wire was white with a pink tracer... Guessing from the age of the loom & the wiring it was from a 1982 mini.

Just another thought to go in the pot...

Neil
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Post  Jono on Mon May 10, 2010 12:11 pm

SUMB wrote: ......As Bruiser Partlett would say.....

............I was going for "Slugger"..... SU Help Needed Icon_biggrin
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Post  muttley on Mon May 10, 2010 4:40 pm

............I was going for "Slugger".....


SU Help Needed 169120
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Post  wezgit daan saaf on Mon May 10, 2010 8:22 pm

You could well be right with it being white with a pink tracer,it's a long time since I have seen a balasted coil on a Metro or Mini,I will check the Autodata bible tomorrow.I did say "as far as I can remember" funny how Scamping muddles the brain! Must be all of the hamerite and oil smells,nothing to do with the alcohol of coarse,or even the many pizza's we have consumed for free! (Just going for the knock out blow there!)
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Post  wezgit daan saaf on Mon May 10, 2010 8:31 pm

Just very fitting that Dave's address is none eaten!
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Post  Mk3rob on Mon May 10, 2010 9:27 pm

Chris thats below the belt

He'll have to tighten it a couple of holes SU Help Needed Icon_twisted
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